Rāranga

Kete Muka woven from natural and black dyed muka (flax fiber) using whatu aho patahi (single-pair weft-twining). Cast on for this kete is unusual as is appears a base cord has been used as a foundation, whenu (warp strands) have been added by creating a loop with the whenu and pulling both tail ends through. The body of this kete is decorated with mawhitiwhiti (woven cross stitch) patterns. A badly deteriorating natural and black muka three ply whiri (braid) has been added to act as a handle. Frill work woven outer edge in black and natural muka.

Complete kahu huruhuru, with kiwi and pheasant feathers. Excepting borders, the main body of the cloak is covered with kiwi feather, with a pheasant feather border with distinct blue patch off-centre on left and right edges. Two pair twine, black twine in selvages. Shaped in centre and towards bottom. Manufactured using whatu aho rua (single-pair weft-twining) technique. On the back side, there are five small net bags evenly spaced in two rows - three along the mid-line and two nearer the bottom edge. The left and right edges are multi-strand twists of red, black and undyed string.

Kete Muka woven from natural muka (flax fiber). Woven using whatu aho rua (two-pair weft-twining). The kaupapa (body) of this kete is decorated with mawhitiwhiti (woven cross stitch) patterns. Frill work woven edge. A piece of muka cord has been looped between stitches along the bottom to add a decorative element.

Piece of kōkōwai wrapped in three layers of kete and kelp. Kōkōwai rests on a bed of feathers and soft fibre and is imprinted with fibre remnants of inner kete. Kete is plaited in over-one, under-one twill, with narrow strands of unscraped plant material. Middle layer is a piece of rigid kelp. Outer layer is a larger, more complete woven piece of kete, curled at the edges and quite rigid, plaited around one edge.

Complete flax kete with kiwi feather decoration. Warps held in place with double pair twine. Each row 1.0 - 1.5cm apart; 19 in all. Feathers attached at every third warp on alternate weft rows. Loosely twisted flax fibre handles on each side. Cast on using thrum technique and cast off from inside by placing first pair of warps to back of second pair, second pair to back of third pair, etc. Held by double pair twine. Warps then frayed to form fringe on outside around top.

Complete kahu huruhuru with kereru feather, flax fibre and wool. Manufactured with whatu aho rua technique (two-pair weft-twining). The first and the last whenu along the left and right edges are pink and blue wool thread twisted together. Kereru feather attached singly (a aho/2) in green and white vertical stripes. The kurupatu (fringe collar) is made with white feather. There are no ties. There is a small area of repair along the top at one edge.

Small flax kete with twisted handle. Woven in a twill pattern from unscraped flax with no additional decoration. Natural mid-yellow colour. No base seam; cast off by folding to internal side and inserting through other flax strands.

Complete flax kete with plaited handle. Woven in a twilled over-one, under-one pattern with unscraped flax. Natural mid-yellow colour with some mid-red and mid-brown in handle. Internal base commencement; cast off with internal horizontal plait. Top edge serrated in large triangular shape. Patterned at the base with three horizontal double rows of holes, created by changing the direction of individual flax strands.

Complete kahu huruhuru with black, white and reddish fowl feathers. Feathers are in roughly parallel, but not completely straight, lines. There is some grey wool in the weaving. There is a small tear along the bottom edge. The side is edged with red wool, the left with undyed wool. Manufactured using whatu aho rua technique (two-pair weft-twining). The upper edge is a thick braid.

Complete kahu huruhuru, with peacock, chicken and turkey feathers. There are peacock feathers in a square in centre of the cloak, with wool borders approximately 8cm wide of blue, red and black. Along the top there are four ties using the same wool. One pair of ties are short, and set back from the edge by approximately 10cm, there is a longer pair of ties at each corner. Manufactured using a whatu aho patihi technique (single pair twining). The 1first whenu are made with two threads; one blue wool and one undyed flax.

Complete piupiu. The flax tags are scraped and unscraped, with the scraped sections dyed alternating faded blue, red and green. The tags are accompanied by five twisted whenu that are tied in decorative bows at the waistband and have pairs of tassels at both the waistband and ends. The waistband is approximately 11cm wide with the horizontal weft rows dyed in red and the vertical warp rows dyed in a faded blue. The top of the waistband is a three ply whiri (plait), with any extensions at each end broken away.

Goose feather and flax kete. Feathers are light brown, light grey, and white in colour. Warps held together using single pair twine. 19 weft rows, 1.5cm apart. Feathers attached to every 6th warp on alternate weft rows (except basal three). Cast on using thrum technique. Cast off from inside by taking warp 1 to back of warp 4, warp 2 to back of warp 5 etc and holding in place with single pair twine. Warps then frayed and trimmed to form fringe on external side. Twisted flax fibre handle on either side, one strand of which has been dyed bright yellow.